Travel: A summer trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość

We visited Zamość Fortress (Polish: Twierdza Zamość) and town on one of those perfect Polish summer days where the sun and heat pelted down and made everything bright and vivid. Locals and visitors in this far south eastern city of Poland seemed to have a spring in their step on this fine day and everyone seemed to be smiling.

A trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość on a sunny summer weekend

A trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość on a sunny summer weekend

Zamość fortress encloses the old Renaissance-style medieval city of Zamość was built between 1579 and 1618. As one of the largest fortresses of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, built so solidly, the fortress was able to resist the attacks of both the Cossacks and the Swedes during the Deluge.

A trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość on a sunny summer weekend

The fort and the city itself were planned by Italian architect from Padua, Bernardo Morando. He used the two local rivers Topornica and Labunka to a defensive advantage and created a moat system which could be flooded during times of attack.

A trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość on a sunny summer weekend

The first castle was built in 1579, then more buildings were added in the following years – the Arsenal (1582), Lublin Gate (1588), Lwów Gate (1599) and  (1603) Szczebrzeszyn Gate. Each has its own drawbridge. The entire complex was completed by Italian architect,Andrea dell’Aqua in 1620. The Italianate style of this city and fortress makes it pretty and elegant. It was a real pleasure to stroll around and the inner square features some beautiful boutique souvenir shops. These are unlike any sort of souvenir shop in my part of the world. They sell hand-made gifts made with love and deep commitment to the craft. Each shop a unique selection of keepsakes made from clay, lace, blown-glass and wood and more.

A trip to the Renaissance fortress and city of Zamość on a sunny summer weekend

At the rynek głowny (city square) on a saturday night, we witnessed local football fans avidly watching the European Championship game between Germany and Poland (along with their distinctly less enthused girlfriends). Everyone sitting in the outdoor pubs that line the square was wearing red and white (biały czerwony) clothes. The result was a nail-biting 0-0. And instead of being dissatisfied that nobody scored, everyone seemed exultant that Poland was still in the running for the semi-finals.

While watching the game, we enjoyed some satisfying and homely peirogi ruski (Russian style peirogi filled with cottage cheese and served with fried onion and sour cream) along with żurek (an immensely tasty sour rye soup, featuring wild mushroom, sour rye, Polish sausage, and the ultimate treasure which slowly surfaced from the broth – a hard boiled egg. Although I was initially a bit sceptical about having boiled egg in a soup, it was completely decadently yummy.

Zamość has some beautiful Renaissance towers, leafy green parks and plentiful extinct motes and flowing rivers to explore. This region of Poland is almost completely flat and so ideal for leisurely weekend bike rides.

Every Picture Tells A Story: Sunrise in the cockpit

Courtesy of Karim Nafatni

“This was my last flight as a 1st officer. Took this shot to immortalise the amazing moments i had the chance to experience flying on the right hand seat. It was time to move to the hot seat , the captain’s seat ;)”

Source: Imgur

Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations

Polish food could be considered similar to many other central European traditional dishes. There’s a sprinkling of a German, Czech, Slovakian, Ukrainian and Russian influences here. Although any Pole worthy of his or her passport will patiently explain to you that while there are similarities, Poland are the original creators of some of the most well loved dishes in Europe.

These traditional dishes are known locally as domowy jedzenie (in English, homely food). This is the kind of food that you would order as your final meal if you were on death row. Soul-nourishing, carb-laden and with enough fortifying potato that it will stick to your insides, for the times when you’re travelling and it’s zimno ciemno i do domu daleko (cold, dark and far from home).

There are still all of the usual suspects in Poland like McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Starbucks and so on. But these are found mainly in the tourist traps and are almost exclusively there to service visitors (and those with a killer hang-over).

Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
An old-school kiosk selling soft drinks, gofry (wafers) and lody (ice-cream)

Eating like a local will enable you to deep dive into Polish culture and experience some of the most wholesome, hearty and tasty food you will ever try. As an added bonus, old-style cafeterias where they sell this kind of food are mind-blowingly cheap. You could get a three-course meal with a drink for two people for under $10 (NZD).

If you go the cafeteria route, then you should dine with a Polish speaker or to learn a bit of basic Polish so that you can order there. These places are from the old school and are mostly run by older ladies in their 60’s or older. They likely don’t know much English, they were probably taught Russian in school instead. So it will probably annoy them and make them feel embarrassed if you start speaking English and they don’t understand you.

That being said, if you go to a more upmarket restauracje or bar in a major city or town that is targeted towards younger people, almost all the serving staff aged under 40 would know how to speak English. So you shouldn’t have a problem with ordering exclusively in English. Also in the big cities all of the menus of the touristy places are in English (but this is generally a sign that the prices will be doubly as expensive).

Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
A very nice looking restaurant in Krakow that we never tried out

So I’ve put together this brief guide to why Polish food is amazing and included some pics and food stories from my own trip to the south of Poland, I hope you enjoy it.

Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
A little restauracja called Morandowka provided the best meal we had in Zamosc. After the meal they gave us all a cute model figures of a medieval town-crier as a parting gift, with a tiny feather in his cap. It’s a wonderful and expected gift I will treasure! https://www.facebook.com/Morandowka/
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Chocolate here is pretty incredible and so is coffee as well. This chocolate themed cafe in Wroclaw incorporates dramatic declarations of love for chocolate into the alley way graffiti.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
A chocolate themed cafe in Wroclaw incorporates declarations of love for chocolate into the alley way graffiti.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
When you ask for a latte, this is what you get in different places in Poland. Using the long spoon you mix in the strong coffee with the large frothy cream cloud and then you scoop it out as though its a hot dessert. Wow!
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Villa Hubertus was a beacon of homely food at the mid-way point of a small hill. At the top was Srebrna Gura fortress, a hill fort that originates from the Napoleonic Wars. On the way down from Srebrna Gura we had an epic meal here. http://www.villahubertus.com.pl
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes layered with spinach, diced tomatoes in a thick mushroom sauce) at the delectable and highly recommended Szalone Widelce in Krakow http://www.szalonewidelce.pl/
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Gofry domowe (or wafers with whipped cream and fresh berries) is a national summer obsession.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Yes this is an extinct New Zealand bird – a Moa in an eatery in Poland. Moa Burger is a chain of three burger places Krakow, Warsaw and Wroclaw themed around the majestic bird. The red and black Maori motifs blend in effortlessly to the Polish bialy/czerwony (white and red) national colours. It’s a match made in heaven. Also the food is amazing as well.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Moa Burger in Wroclaw: Up there with the most tasty burger, fries and shake I’ve ever had anywhere in the world. New Zealand’s burger places seemed inferior by comparison.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
You can find examples of understated cafeteria-style places selling reasonably priced domowe obiady (home style lunches) in the tunnel beneath most main city train stations. My favourite cafeteria was underneath of Wroclaw main train station, pictured. Although everyone seemed harried and ready to jump on the train as they gulped down food, the food itself more than made up for the rush-rush of the station, it was soul food.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Owoce i warzywa / Fruit and veg
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
A craft beer festival coming up in Wroclaw. Poland has a booming craft beer culture with crazy combinations of flavours floating around all over the place. 
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
A Polish craft beer with Maori symbolism.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Pierogi ruski / Russian Pierogi is a delicately flavoured dumpling filled with cheese and herbs and served with sour cream and sauteed onion. It sounds simple but it will blow your mind.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Bar Mleczny exemplifies the best of Polish soul food, wholesome, cheap and tasty home-style meals. This place exists in the centre of the Krakow old town, but don’t try and order anything in English as they prefer if you try and speak Polish, it’s only polite.
Polski jedzenie/ Polish food: My om nom nom nominations
Evening market squares like this one opposite to the St Peter and Paul Church in Krakow, often sell craft beer by the pint and kielbasa (sausage) and bigos (Polish hunter’s stew with slow-cooked saurkraut, smoked sausage, bacon mushroom and vegetables.

Book Review: The Fahrenheit Twins by Michel Faber

I had the pleasure of meeting Michel Faber at the Auckland Writers Festival this autumn. He’s a reserved, humble and softly-spoken fellow who was gobbled up by the overly bold interviewer, someone far less important, whose name escapes me.

Faber brought with him onto the stage a pair of dainty red women’s shoes and only later in the hour, explained their significance. They belonged to his beloved wife who has now left this earth due to a long and devastating bout with cancer. Faber takes the shoes along with him to places where she would have liked to go if she were alive.

Michel Faber sits on (what looks like) a Lothian Bus in Edinburgh
Michel Faber sits on (what looks like) a Lothian Bus in Edinburgh

He then proceeded to read an  electrifying and heart-rending poem. About how his wife when she had cancer was inescapably viscerally ugly but in his memory, she will be forever beautiful forever more. It was a fragile, human and vulnerable moment which laid bare one of the most incredible writers of the new century. I fell in love with him quite a lot when he did that, and so bought two of his oeuvre after the talk and got him to sign both The Fahrenheit Twins and his most recent novel, the Book of Strange New Things.

Book Review: The Fahrenheit Twins by Michel Faber
Michel Faber along with his late wife Eva Youren.

He signed both with a personal note, as personal and intimate as one can be at a book signing anyway. Strangely, I felt both touched by his personal message and saddened that I couldn’t know him more.

His physical presence takes up little oxygen and space, and yet his power with words is positively mind-blowing. His prose is sexy, earthy, visceral, heart-pounding and primal. It is darkly funny and sometimes just plain disturbing and deeply sad. Always though he exposes the quirky and disturbing, light and dark humanity within people, using language that has style and depth.

Dutch by birth and Australian by upbringing, Faber moved to the Scottish Highlands with his late wife because both of them suffered severe migraines caused by the bright  Australian sun. [I too migrated Scotland once because of  a need for misty mountains rather than harsh sun].

The Fahrenheit Twins is a short story collection was written in an edgy, intimate style where each character is intimately and passionately understood and their narrative voice sounding so natural and organic in his hands.

His tone of voice diverges quite significantly with his short story protagonists.

In Finesse, a political prisoner and world-leading surgeon is given a reprieve to conduct a life-saving surgery for a despotic dictator. The comical and dark tension between the two characters is palpable. The dictator when asked what his blood type is, replies incredulously ‘Well that’s easy, I have a man’s blood’. The surgeon’s response is ‘Nevertheless, I need to know it’s clinical type’. It’s funny, wry and dark.

In The Eyes of the Soul, Jeanette lives in a hell-hole of a housing estate where through her front window, each day she witnesses people frequently get mugged and stabbed. A door-to-door salesperson offers her visual respite in the form of a screw in and switch on virtual reality which shows in full technicolour 24 hours per day a live feed from the “grounds of the Old Priory, in Northward Hill, Rochester”, in all of its Beatrix Potter glory.

The most disturbing and dark of all is The Smallness of the Action. The first lines of this are “On Wednesday morning, in a moment of carelessness, Christine dropped her baby on the floor and broke him.” It speaks directly to the shadow side of motherhood that involves in some rare cases, an amount of mental illness and post-partum depression that can lead to some women doing unspeakable things to their new borns. It’s dark, sad and disturbing and yet totally amazing writing.

It’s not all dark though. In Vanilla Bright Like Eminem a chance simple moment on a train in the Scottish highlands, between a family from America visiting on holiday to Inverness is the catalyst for one of the most happiest moments in a man’s life.

 

I can’t recommend this book enough. An exhilerating 10/10

 

 

Book Quotes that will give you an insatiable desire to read the whole thing

If you’re not already a complete recluse and homebody like I am, you will be after reading these book quotes, which are succinct, powerful, compelling and just amazing. There is no need for literary context here, each quote possesses a standalone brilliance that makes it irresistible.

Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it. Reaper man – Terry Pratchett

Content Catnip - Vulcanised Words

“There he goes. One of God’s own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.”
~Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas

 

“Biology gives you a brain. Life turns it into a mind.”
Jeffrey Eugenides, Middlesex

Fifty Words To Help You Flirt Well

The past isn’t quaint while you’re in it. Only at a safe distance, later, when you can see it as décor, not as the shape your life’s been squeezed into.
Cat’s Eye by Margaret Atwood

Fifty Words To Help You Flirt Well: Brood

 

Patience does not mean to passively endure. It means to be farsighted enough to trust the end result of a process. What does patience mean? It means to look at the thorn and see the rose, to look at the night and see the dawn.
~The Forty Rules of Love: A Novel of Rumi

“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.” Dune.
“Lolita, light of my life, fire of my loins. My sin, my soul. Lo-lee-ta: the tip of the tongue taking a trip of three steps down the palate to tap, at three, on the teeth. Lo. Lee. Ta.” Vladimir Nabokov, Lolita

Fifty Words To Help You Flirt Well: Dalliance
The snow in the mountains was melting and Bunny had been dead for several weeks before we came to understand the gravity of our situation.
The first line of The Secret History by Donna Tartt.

 

“But his soul was mad. Being alone in the wilderness, it had looked within itself and, by heavens I tell you, it had gone mad.”
Heart of Darkness by Joseph Conrad

Fifty Words To Help You Flirt: Evanescent

“When the spring came, even the false spring, there were no problems except where to be happiest. The only thing that could spoil a day was people and if you could keep from making engagements, each day had no limits. People were always the limiters of happiness except for the few that were as good as spring itself.”-Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

If you haven’t already, then make sure you read these literary quotes by master of his craft – David Foster Wallace, along with this sensual poetry by Polish poetess Anna Swir